Let us start today with a warning: this post is neither a trip report to the Pendjari Park nor a write-up on it. Rather, it is a compilation of photos from my trips there, the last one of which was in 2018. Quite a lot has happened since then, both in Benin and at the Park. Pendjari is now under the expert management of African Parks, an international NGO focused on wildlife conservation. So, expect changes. And speaking of changes, the security situation in northern Benin was gone through some significant ups and downs. We all hope that the situation there will permit the park to have the many visitors that it deserves!
The Park
Established in 1961, the Pendjari National Park (in French, Parc National de la Pendjari) is a protected area with 1,060 sq. miles (2,750 sq. km) on the western foothills of the Atakora range of northern Benin. The Park, together with the tri-national (Benin’s, Niger’s, and Burkina-Faso’s) W National Park and Burkina Faso’s Arly National Park, plus their associated reserve and hunting zones, make up the W–Arly–Pendjari Complex, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since July 2017.
The Pendjari National Park is home to more than 300 bird species and an equally wide variety of large mammals, including some of the last big herds of elephants and prides of lions in West Africa.
Park regulations require that you be always with an accredited guide throughout your visit there. Back in my days, a few of them spoke English reasonably well. (Check to see if Akpana Issa is still there!)
Hospitality and Logistics
Before African Parks came in, there were two places to stay within the perimeter of the Park: The Hotel Pendjari (which was state-run at the time); and a rather quaint & small Pendjari Lodge (5 luxury tents) at the top of a hill overlooking one of the Park’s waterholes. But as I’ve said above, things may have changed! Do check.
The Park’s main entrance near Batia is approximately 400 miles (600 km) as-the-crow-flies from Cotonou. Back then, the only practical way to get there was by privately-owned vehicle. There was a bus service to Natitingou and to Tanguieta, but it was a long & risky preposition, to say the least.
Going back to the “road trip,” the route takes you through Allada, Bohicon, and Dassa. Here one must choose between the shorter (390 miles / 630 km) but much slower western route (via Savalou) or the longer (450 miles / 720 km) but faster eastern route (via Parakou). Both routes—western and eastern—reunite in Djougou, and then continue through Natitingou and Tanguieta to Batia.
Regardless of the route you choose, it’s impossible to do the trip from Cotonou to the Park in one day, believe me! This mainly because both lodging places are on the northern (i.e., farthest) side of the Park, and the going from Tanguieta to Batia and then across the Park is very slow, on unsurfaced roads. Fortunately, there are many options as far as places to stop for the night along the way: Abomey (right next to Bohicon), Dassa, Savalou, Parakou, Djougou, and Natitingou. I would normally stop in Parakou or Djougou on the way north, and in Dassa or Abomey in the way south.
On places to sleep in all these stop-over towns:
- Abomey – The Auberge (nice location & architecture) or the Chez Sabine (super nice owner)
- Dassa – The Auberge (seen better days, but convenient) or the Eco-Ferme Auberge Maktub (a.k.a., Chez Armad) (“traditional” lodging but super nice, and the owners are equally super nice) (but do not try to find it on your own! Have the owner meet you in town and guide you to the place).
- Savalou – F&F
- Parakou – Les Routiers (probably one of the best places to stay once in “deep” Benin!)
- Djougou – Motel du Lac (nice & clean, and with super nice owners)
- Natitingou – Bellevue (nice, with a nice garden and great views)
Yes, I’ve stayed in all these places. …and in a few more that—let me just put it in this way—didn’t make the cut! Note as well that most places in this list are also good bets when looking for a place to eat.
Still on logistics, be aware that Tanguieta is your last place on the way to the Park to fuel up your car, to access money at an ATM, and to purchase groceries.
Lastly, on your way back home, do make sure to visit the Tanougou Falls, just outside the Park’s main gate near Batia. The helpful local guides will expertly escort you over the rocks to view the pond.
Cheers!
